Built for real estate investors

Deal Analyzer

Residential and business analysis — buy & hold, flip, BRRRR and long-horizon returns — with state-by-state property tax and closing cost estimates built in.

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Every calculator, residential and business: buy & hold, flip and BRRRR, reverse-offer pricing, a hold & exit projection with IRR, business buy & hold and flip, SDE/SBA and commercial DSCR valuation. Itemized expenses, 50-state property tax and closing costs, saved properties, PDF reports.

Everything in Investor, plus AI features: an AI deal report written from your own figures, AI repair estimates from your photos, and address lookup that fills in the property’s facts. Not available to buy yet.

New to this? Read how each strategy is calculated →

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Deal Analyzer DEAL ANALYSIS DESK

Numbers before the tide turns.

Residential or business, hold or flip — run every deal the same way, with property tax estimates for all 50 states built in.

Plan: Free
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Estimates only. Every figure in this tool — property tax, mortgage, business income/expense, and all other accounting calculations — is an approximation based on the numbers you enter and on the tax rates and averages described at the foot of this page. Confirm actual property taxes with the local county tax appraiser, and consult a licensed tax professional, accountant, and lender before making an offer or financial decision.
New here? Load an example deal to see how it works. Showing an example deal — not your numbers.

Free Calculators

The everyday questions: what a buyer brings to closing and what they’ll pay monthly, what a seller walks away with, and what an income property or business is worth. Approximate figures — confirm with your lender, closing agent and accountant.

The Purchase
$
%
%
years
Ongoing Costs
$

The figure the app fills in here is the state’s owner-occupied average; a rental usually pays more. In many states the taxable value resets when a home sells, so the seller’s bill can be lower than yours will be: the county’s tax estimator for a new owner gives the real figure.

$
$
$

Closing
$
$
Money due at closing that is not a fee: the first year of homeowners insurance, interest from the closing day to the end of that month, and the deposit that opens your escrow account for taxes and insurance. Estimated here as a full year of the insurance above, fifteen days of interest — the placeholder a Loan Estimate uses — and three months of taxes and insurance for the escrow deposit. The real deposit depends on when your county’s tax bill falls due and can be several months more.
$

Enter the credit offered by the seller. The amount you can use depends on eligible costs and lender rules. Unused credits do not automatically reduce your required down payment.

$
Acquisition
$
%
$
$
Work done before the first tenant moves in. It is cash you put into the deal, so it belongs in the return, not in the yearly running costs.
mo
How long the property stands empty while the work above is done. You still owe the property taxes, the insurance and the association every one of those months, with no rent coming in — which is why the first year is not the same as a normal year. Leave it blank if a tenant is already in place.
$
Cash held back for the first vacancy or repair, including anything a lender requires you to hold. Still yours, but tied up in the deal.
Financing
%
$
years
years
How long a loan takes to pay off and how long you have it are two different things. A payment worked out over twenty or thirty years can still fall due in five: the loan matures, the remaining balance is owed in one lump, and you refinance it, sell, or find the cash. Put the maturity here if it is shorter than the term above and the balloon will be shown below. This is the ordinary shape of a commercial loan, and the number that catches people out.
Income (Monthly)
$
$
%
Commonly 5–10% of income — a convention, not advice. Replace it with the figure for this property.
Operating Expenses (Annual)
$

Filled in with the yearly property tax at the rate a rental (not a home you live in) pays in the town or county chosen above, struck on the price. With no town or county chosen, the highest rate this app holds for the state is used; where it holds no verified rate for the place, nothing is filled in. Flat yearly charges billed per property, such as trash, fire or stormwater fees, are not included in the figure filled in. For the real figure, ask the county what a new owner who does not live there would pay, or pull the parcel’s current bill.

Check it yourself

Check these public records before trusting these figures. Each office below is free to search.

First, find who keeps the records. Search the address with the word “county” (“parish” in Louisiana, “borough” in Alaska). Washington DC, Baltimore, St. Louis and Virginia’s cities are in no county; use their own offices. The mailing city may not be the city the property is in; the tax record often shows which, if any.

Unofficial sites often copy office names. Start from the local or state government’s website; official sites may also charge, and may not end in .gov.

Type the search words in English, as shown, and put the property’s own place and state where the brackets are.

Cities, towns and townships usually value property and collect tax in New England, New Jersey, New York, Michigan and Wisconsin, and record deeds in Connecticut, Rhode Island and Vermont. State offices value property in Maryland and Montana and record deeds in Hawaii and Alaska.

More for experienced investors
  • The seller’s tax bill can be a poor guide to yours: the taxable value resets after a sale in some states, such as California, Florida and Michigan, and discounts for owners who live in the home often end. Some states, such as Alabama and South Carolina, tax a home the owner does not live in at a higher rate, and the increase may come on a later bill.
  • A city, school, village or special district may bill separately, as in parts of New York, Pennsylvania and Texas, and unpaid past years may move from the town to the county, as in Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin. Ask the seller for every tax bill, and ask each office or your closing company for a written statement of everything owed.
  • The value on the tax record is often a fraction of market value or lowered by caps, its size and rooms may be out of date, and major renovations can raise it, so do not use it as a price or resale value. Offices vary too: Ohio’s county auditor usually sets values, Kentucky has a Property Valuation Administrator, Tennessee’s trustee collects tax, Alabama’s probate office records deeds, some Massachusetts counties have more than one registry of deeds, and much of Alaska has no property tax.
  • Judgments, contractor liens and lawsuit notices may be kept only by a court or county clerk, as in Pennsylvania, North Carolina and New York City, and Iowa keeps contractor liens on a state online registry. Where foreclosure happens without a court case, look for a notice of default or of sale: California records it with the deeds, but Texas and Georgia post or publish it, so also ask the seller and the title company.
  • Depending on local rules, a new owner may be asked to close an open permit, which can mean hiring a contractor, paying fees or opening walls; Florida bars penalizing a buyer with no connection to the prior owner solely for that owner’s unclosed permit; that protection does not cover work done without a permit. An open code case can continue after a sale, other offices may hold electrical, septic or well permits, some rural areas require no permit for homes, and title insurance usually does not cover permit or code problems.
  • Most home insurance does not cover flood, and federal flood insurance is priced for each building, not by zone, so ask whether the seller’s policy can be transferred to you and get your own quote early. It is not sold in communities outside the federal program, where some federally backed loans are also barred in high-risk zones, or for newer buildings in some protected coastal areas.
  • Maps change, and the same FEMA site lists preliminary maps; an unmapped area means FEMA has published no map there, and Zone D means the risk was not studied, so neither means low risk. In a high-risk zone, repairs or improvements costing half or more of the building’s value, not counting land, may require meeting current flood rules, such as raising the building, and some places use a lower share.
$
The state averages offered here are for owner-occupied policies. A landlord or rental policy usually costs more, and a vacant property under renovation more again. A coastal property — wind, flood, an older roof — can run far above its own state’s average. Nothing is filled in for you: type the figure you were quoted.
$
%
Routine recurring repairs only — a plumbing call, a turnover, servicing the air handler. Big-ticket replacements belong in Replacement Reserves below, so the same cost is not counted twice.
Commonly 5–10% of income — a convention, not advice. Replace it with the figure for this property.
%
Commonly 8–10% of income — a convention, not advice. Replace it with the figure for this property.
%
Money set aside for future major replacements, such as a roof or air-conditioning system. This reduces the cash available to spend even when the replacement has not happened yet.
Commonly 3–5% of income — a convention, not advice. Replace it with the figure for this property.
Investor plan

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    Approximate figures only. Your lender's Loan Estimate and the closing agent's settlement statement are the real numbers.
    What You'll Need
    Cash to Close
    $0
    Monthly Payment
    $0
    Cash to Close
    Down Payment$0
    Closing Costs (estimated, itemized)$0
    Prepaid Items & Initial Escrow (insurance, prepaid interest, escrow deposit)$0
    Less: Seller Credit Applied$0
    Less: Earnest Money Already Paid$0
    Cash Due at Closing$0
    Monthly Payment
    Principal & Interest$0
    Property Taxes$0
    Homeowners Insurance$0
    Mortgage Insurance $0
    HOA / Condo Fees$0
    Total Monthly Payment$0
    Loan Amount$0

    Worth knowing before you commit

    FHA mortgage insurance may never go away. On an FHA loan with less than 10% down, mortgage insurance lasts the entire life of the loan — it does not fall off when you reach 20% equity. Put 10% or more down and it ends after 11 years. What to do about it: compare a conventional loan. On a home you live in, you can ask to cancel PMI at 20% equity of the original value, and it must end on its own at 22% on the original payment schedule; on a rental, cancellation is the servicer's policy rather than your right. If you already have an FHA loan, refinancing to conventional once you have equity is the usual way out. Ask your lender to quote both.
    Conventional PMI is cancelable — but not automatically at 20%. On a home you live in, you can request cancellation at 20% equity based on the original value, if the loan is current with a clean payment history and no second lien. The lender only has to drop it on its own at 22%, on the original payment schedule. Those are rights on a conventional loan on your own home; on a rental, cancellation is the servicer's policy. What to do about it: put it on your calendar. Work out roughly when your balance hits 80% of the original price and write to your servicer. Waiting for automatic termination costs you the difference.
    Your closing costs here are an estimate. Replace these estimates with quotes from your lender and closing agent. Include applicable fees, prepaid expenses, and required deposits, without entering the same cost twice. The lender's Loan Estimate must arrive within three business days of your application. What to do about it: get Loan Estimates from more than one lender and compare page 2 side by side. Lender fees vary far more than rates do.
    Taxes usually go up after you buy. This is a state-level starting estimate, applied to the purchase price. Your actual bill depends on the property, local tax rules, exemptions, and any reassessment after purchase. In much of Florida the assessed value resets on sale, so the seller's current bill can be far lower than yours will be. What to do about it: ask the county property appraiser what the taxes will be at your purchase price, and check whether homestead exemption applies to you.